Monday, May 20, 2013

High Resolution Photo

Here’s a look at just how good a high resolution image is and this isn’t an image from the Gov. classified cameras, imagine what resolution drones have. Now you know why you don’t want drones freely flying overhead.

Open the link below:
Using the same technology as Google Earth to track you, be warned it will be most difficult and almost impossible to lose yourself in any crowd. You can easily be found.

This is the crowd before the riots in Vancouver. Put your cursor anywhere in the crowd and double-click a couple of times. To further help with image, use the scroll button in the centre of your mouse.

Zero in on any one specific single face.  The clarity is incredible.

This is the photo taken by Port Moody photographer, Ronnie Miranda that appeared in the Tri-City News 24-June.

You can see perfectly the face of every single individual - and there were thousands at this event.

Just think what the police and the military have at their disposal. Be Warned!


New Camera


The last 12 months have been hard on cameras for me, both of them have broken,,, again and I refuse to pay another $250 for Nikon factory repair service. Today’s point and shoot cameras are superior in image quality to the ones of 5-8 years ago and a fraction of the cost. So it looks like I have to accept the fact that from now on digital cameras are disposable and if I get 2-3 years out of one, just be happy.

The issue I have with new electronic devices, cameras, phones etc is they do too much. They are simply overly featured and complicated to the point you need the carry the instruction manual with you at all times.

Anyway I’m looking forward too working with the new camera and it will be the one used for the blog images. The anti-shake feature should help produce sharp focused hand held images and I especially hope the video feature works well enough where I can post short videos of what I’m doing. We’ll see how that goes.

If anyone is using the Nikon S9200 I’d like to here your comments about it!

Camera Details:
Nikon COOLPIX S9200 16 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 18x Zoom NIKKOR ED Glass Lens and Full HD 1080p Video (Black)
16.0 Megapixel CMOS sensor
18x Zoom-NIKKOR ED lens (10x optical zoom, 35mm equiv. 25mm – 450mm)
3-inch Ultra-high resolution LCD display
Full HD (1080p) Movies with Stereo Sound
Steady-Shot anti vibration setting
200 shots per battery charge
30 minutes of video
Along with a countless other features

Cost: $123.45   Amazon with free shipping and no sales tax
Extras I purchased:
2 batteries and charger $19.99
32 GB Memory Card $23.98

Here’s a quick overview of the camera and its capabilities.




Thursday, May 16, 2013

Garden May 2013



My garden is small because of all the trees I have in my yard and it limits me to a very small space of about 8 x 20 feet that gets only a half day of sun.
This year I thought I would get an early jump on the garden and plant outside in late February so I had enough time for the second garden at the end of this summer harvest. Well we have, like the rest of you, weird weather and I had three freezes in March. Covering the plants helps but they do get stressed from the cold and it stunts some of their growth.

So far things are looking good, here are some pics of a current garden!

The six tomato plants already 6 feet tall.

Some cherry tomatoes getting ready to turn red. We have just picked 6 ripe ones so far.

Green peppers about 3 inches long.

And my bucket garden with green onions, basil, carrots and beets all doing very well.



Saturday, May 11, 2013

AR-15 Brass vs. Steel Cased Ammo – An Epic Torture Test


The AR-15 (223/5.56)  Brass vs. Steel Cased Ammo – An Epic Torture Test

 

As an owner an avid shooter of the AR-15, I have always wondered if the use of steel case ammo would be detrimental to the life of this weapon just to save a few bucks? To date I have never fired a single round of steel case ammo through my AR.

 

That question has finally been answered in an extremely thorough test, the kind I like. The people who conducted this test are the www.LuckyGunner.com. We should all buy something from this company to thank them for this test. I made a copy of the article and saved it, its 55 pages long plus a number of videos. Lucky Gunner spent a lot of money on this test.

 

The link to the entire story/test:

http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/


Following is the first page of the story/text to give you an idea of the tests depth. If you own an AR take the time to review this test, it is worth it!

 

 

Brass vs. Steel Cased Ammo – An Epic Torture Test


There are two major types of centerfire rifle cartridges available on the market today:
·                 Those which are loaded with steel, and
·                 Those which are loaded with brass
This seemingly simple variation has caused a never ending stream of argument, discussion, speculation, and questioning from new and seasoned shooters alike.  Complicating the conversation are other variables that typically get lumped into the argument without proper segmentation, such as:
·                 The different coating options available on the steel-cased ammo (lacquer or polymer)
·                 The different projectile loadings available (copper jacketed lead, the bi-metal coating that most Russian manufacturers use, etc)
·                 The different propellant (gunpowder) burn rates
Our team decided to try something ambitious and daunting:  to provide the best resource and data available to answer these questions once and for all through objective experimentation and observation.
We realize this is a lofty and borderline arrogant goal.  We’ve done our best.  Please keep reading to see if you agree.
Here’s what we did:
·                 We acquired four identical Bushmaster AR-15 rifles.  We chose the Bushmaster MOE Series AR-15 because it’s a widely available, affordable, and mass-market.  We didn’t want something too cheap and of lower quality or something too expensive and of high quality since our goal is to help the most number of people.
·                 We acquired 10,000 rounds each of the following ammunition (new production):
o                        Federal 55gr – Brass-Cased – Copper Jacket
o                        Wolf 55gr FMJ – Steel-Cased with Polymer Coating – Bi-Metal Jacket (steel and copper)
o                        Tula 55gr FMJ – Steel-Cased with Polymer Coating – Bi-Metal Jacket (steel and copper)
o                        Brown Bear 55gr FMJ – Steel-Cased with Lacquer Coating – Bi-Metal Jacket (steel and copper)
·                 We paired each ammunition type with a specific Bushmaster AR-15 and then fired all 10,000 rounds of it through that particular carbine (except for Tula; more on that below)
·                 We systematically observed and tested various things, including (more details below):
o                        At the start: accuracy, velocity, chamber and gas port pressures, chamber cast
o                        After 2,000 rounds:  accuracy, velocity
o                        After 4,000 rounds:  accuracy, velocity
o                        After 5,000 rounds: throat erosion, chamber cast
o                        After 6,000 rounds:  accuracy, velocity
o                        After 8,000 rounds:  accuracy, velocity
o                        After 10,000 rounds:  accuracy, velocity, chamber and gas port pressures, throat erosion, extractor wear, chamber cast, barrel wear
·                 We logged every malfunction of every rifle-ammo combination
·                 The rifles were cleaned according to a preset schedule and temperatures were monitored and kept within acceptable limits (more below)
·                 We sectioned the barrels and otherwise made unique observations after the test was complete
If you’re interested in any of the following, you’ll find observations, data, and further details below:
·                 Which ammunition was most reliable?
·                 Which ammunition was the dirtiest?
·                 Which performed better, lacquer or polymer coating?

Monday, May 6, 2013

Bleach Disinfecting and Sanitation



We all need to have some bleach on hand for daily sanitation and laundry needs. If our drinking water should become compromised because of storms or because we are in a remote area and uncertain as to how safe it is then we need to use bleach for the disinfection the water if boiling the water is not possible. Boiling drinking water provides the safest water.

To SAFELY use bleach as a disinfectant or sterilizer you must have the proper measuring and testing tools. These are an ‘eye dropper’ and ‘Chlorine Test Strips’. The eye dropper can be purchased at any drug store for $1.50 and the chlorine test strips from any swimming pool supply store for $6.00 to $30.00 for 50 test strips. You will need to have two sizes or ranges of test strips; 1-25ppm and 1000-10000pmm. The chlorine test strips are very important especially if you are storing water. With the test strips you can monitor the chlorine level throughout the year. Remember, chlorine dissipates with age and this could leave your stored water unprotected and unknown to you not safe to drink!

To provide accurate information I researched the use of bleach from Universities to major health and rescue organizations and came up with the following recipes or dosing for the most common uses in disinfection and sanitizing. The bleach should be between 5¼% to 6% concentration unscented household bleach.


Water Emergency Disinfection
2 ppm to no more than 4 ppm (EPA Maximum recommended ppm)
1 quart = 2 drops
1 gallon = 8 drops
5 gallons = ¼ teaspoon
10 gallons = ½ teaspoon
50 gallons = 2½ teaspoons

(Instructions from Clorox:)
When boiling of water for 1 minute is not practical, water can be made potable by using unscented bleach. Prior to addition of the sanitizer, remove all suspended material by filtration or by allowing it to settle to the bottom.

Decant the clarified contaminated water to a clean container and add 12 drops or 1/8 teaspoon of this product to 2 gallons of water (2 drops to 1 quart). Allow the treated water to stand for 30 minutes. Properly treated water should have a slight chlorine odor. If not, repeat dosage and allow the water to stand an additional 15 minutes. The treated water can then be made palatable by pouring it between clean containers several times.

Note; it takes 45 minutes to kill Giardia Protozoan (common cause of diarrhea) with a 1 ppm chlorine level. So waiting 60 minutes before drinking treated water is a good idea just incase you have Giardia in the raw water.

For cloudy water, use 24 drops or 1/4 teaspoon of this product per 2 gallons of water (3 drops to 1 quart). If no chlorine odor is apparent after 30 minutes, repeat dosage and wait an additional 15 minutes.

  
Garden Vegetable Rinsing
¼ teaspoon per 1 gallon water = 25 ppm (Clorox recommendation)

Thoroughly clean all fruits and vegetables. Prepare a sanitizing solution of 25 ppm available chlorine. Spray mist on submerge the fruit or vegetables and let rest for 2 minutes then rinse with clean water.


Disinfecting Solution
½ cup per 1 gallon water = 2400 ppm (Clorox recommendation)

Apply solution and let stand 5 minutes then rinse with clean water. (You can use this solution in a trigger sprayer to get into difficult small spaces, just remember to spray with clean water after the 5 minutes of soaking to rinse off all the chlorine).
A common everyday disinfecting solution used for; Kitchen Countertops, Bathroom Areas, Tubs and Showers, Toys, Garbage Cans, Refrigerator Interiors, most all hard surfaces and items.


Sanitizing Cutting Boards, Food, Meat Processing Equipment
1 cup per 1 gallon water = 5,000 ppm (CDC recommendation)

Bleach solutions used for disinfecting must remain wet on the surface for an adequate amount of time to be effective. This is often referred to as Contact Time or Dwell Time and can vary depending on the dilution and type of microorganism you are trying to kill. For example, a 10 minute contact time with a higher-strength solution containing at least 5000 ppm is recommended by the Center for Disease Control (CDC) for the hard-to-kill spore form of Clostridium difficile. After sufficient contact time, the surface should be rinsed with clean water to remove bleach residue. This helps to minimize surface damage and is especially important when using bleach to disinfect toys or food-contact surfaces.



Sources:
The above information was taken from a variety of trustworthy sources including numerous Universities. I have discovered that there is no golden rule that everyone abides by when it comes to bleach/water mixing ratios for specific tasks. I selected and posted the most commonly agreed to ratios.

Clorox:
This is the most complete bleach water information I’ve found. Download and save!

Red Cross:

CDC:

EPA: